Chunky Corduroy Yanta’s with Emma
Hi, It's Emma here again with another lovely make with gorgeous fabric provided by The Rag Shop.
Let’s start at the beginning, shall we? To say this finished garment has been a journey is an understatement!
Sew Inspired by
It was a bright autumnal crisp morning when I spotted a lady wearing a lovely pair of caramel coloured corduroy trousers outside one of my favourite bakers which threw me down the rabbit hole pinning images and ideas on Pinterest. I was also non the hunt for a size-inclusive pattern that would suit a chunky corduroy and thought the Dawn Jeans in the Curve Range would suit both my size and the fabric choice, once I had sourced it. The reason why I picked the Dawns is that one of the fabrics they show on the model is indeed chunky corduroy.
Ok, now fabric. I didn’t have to look that far or hard to be honest because I remember seeing this gorgeous stretch Chunky Corduroy on The Rag Shop’s website after seeing other fabrics, so I had bookmarked it for a potential project. (This fabric has now sold out but we have the Turmeric colour available here.)
It’s got a 30% stretch width wise which I thought would be super comfortable. Plus the colour was spot on when I received it in person. It’s gorgeous and soft and thought this would suit the Dawns really well.
Toiles for success?
But before I cut into this beautiful corduroy, it’s wise to do a toile of the Dawns’ as I haven’t tackled something like this before in terms of fit. I reached for a 3% stretch cotton that I bought a few years ago and had been sitting in my stash for an age. Before I began this toile I had my doubts about the pattern, however, the instructions are really good, there wasn’t a moment where I was stuck. The actual garment/ toile in this case isn’t far off and I could do a full bottom and tummy adjustment and it would be closer to fit.
However, there was a strong case of 1. I want to get a garment finished for The Rag Shop’s Blog and 2. Just a little self-doubt about doing those adjustments. I don’t think I had any stretch cotton on my stash that would be available for toiles either so I had to make an executive decision, fast.
Long story short, although the corduroy would look spectacular in the Dawn’s, I ended up going with the Yanta Overalls by Helen’s Closet. Another inclusive pattern but I’ve already made a version which I love. Once I had this chain of thought in my head, it was a no-brainer and I raced to get it cut out and sewn up. Also, I've seen Sam aka @purplesewingcloud on Instagram and very recently Helen from Helen's Closet make & model their own pair of stretch corduroy Yanta Overalls.
Sewing this chunky corduroy wasn’t straight forward as I hoped - yup, you read right! Because of the thickness of the fabric, I opted for a denim needle, firstly 80/12 and then a 90/14 but my top thread kept snapping and there were skipped stitches. I then loosened the tension and lighten the pressure of the foot. I even played about with my stitch lengths and still, the same problems arose. I consulted Sharlene aka @SewSoDressmaking on Instagram and put a “Help Me” on stories to see if anyone could help me. Now, I wish I just tried an 80/12 Universal needle in the beginning because I made my life harder than it needed to be and I was surprised so many people recommended such a lightweight needle for this fabric.
Once I had sorted the needle, sewing the Yanta Overalls were straightforward. I had hand sewn the facing in when things were quite frankly going to pot with the machine but once I had sorted it out, I re-ran it through the machine, I’ll unpick them stitches at a later date as I just wanted to wear them.
The facing is a leftover piece from a pair of Winslow’s I made very recently and it’s a stretch Viscose. It’s also from The Rag Shop, so a perfect pairing if I should say so myself!
The fabric was lovely to handle. The handler just chose the wrong machine needle, but we got there in the end!
That finishing touch
I’ve used a Hemline brass dungaree set which I bought from The Rag Shop after I realised I only had silver and wasn’t sure if it was going to with the caramel cord. I think the brass will be a softer accessory to the dungarees, I was right - it just looks like “chef’s kiss”.
Another addition and a fetching (if I say so myself) finishing touch is this leather label, which I’ve attached at the back where the two straps meet. Victoria, who owns and runs Little Rosy Cheeks is lovely and comes to our Sew Scottish events when she can (all pre covid!). I can’t get enough of her labels and her positive messages, which you can buy from The Rag Shop or shop the full range directly from her website.
I bought the metal zip from one of my local fabric shops, here in Edinburgh and it goes rather well with the caramel cord.
Will I go back to the Dawn toile and rework it? Almost certainly, but it will have to wait. Is there room for more Yanta Overalls, especially stretchy ones in my wardrobe? Definitely, without a doubt, yes!
But before I go back to the Dawn Pattern, I’m going to try my hand at other trouser patterns as I need to fill this gap in my me-made wardrobe. What size-inclusive trouser pattern would you recommend?
Another fantastic pairing and addition to my me-made wardrobe, these Yantas are going to go with so many of my makes, especially a couple of those that I’ve made with The Rag Shop fabrics.
You can find me over on Instagram at @SewDoItEmma and my blog www.SewDoItEmma.com
Thank you for reading, Happy sewing!