Sewing Cotton Twill Soline Culottes with Emma
With autumn coming round the corner quite hastily in the UK, I wanted to really get some of these warm tones into my wardrobe and couldn't turn an opportunity to write another blog post for The Rag Shop.
Actually, this Autumn may be the first that I’ve really played with the colour palette that paints the season. This year, in particular, I have noticed a big change in what I sew and why. I think looking at my own me-made wardrobe and realising that I have gaps that I could easily fill with a few key pieces for each season.
One of my most recent testing opportunities was the Soline Shorts by Staystich Patterns and I had made two in short succession after making a toile. I am in love with the elasticated paper bag high waist design and knew immediately after making the shorts culottes had to happen. The Solines go up to 64" hip, which is another reason why I am literally singing my wee socks off about this pattern.
Steph allowed me to use this gorgeous "Brick" Ventana Cotton Twill, it is a true autumn colour in its own right and it's working with a few tops already in my wardrobe and will continue to do so.
When I received the Ventana Cotton twill in the mail I was quite worried, although it was quite soft it was stiff, I know- that’s already quite a contrast there but after I had washed and dried it, the cotton twill relaxed. This was the first time had used cotton twill. I hadn't looked up how to sew with it but thought it best to treat it like denim. I used a 90/12 jeans/denim needle after my standard cotton needle (70/10) was skipping stitches and it worked perfectly - small change, massive difference. My machine handled most of the layers really well. I used a stitch length of 3.5 on my machine. I think attaching the waistband was the hardest part for my machine as there were several layers, but no needles broke, nor tears shed.
I used almost 3 metres of the Ventana Twill as it is only 110 cms wide. I think the remaining parts will be made into a bag at some point. The Ventana twill is a medium weight with a tiny bit of drape, making it perfect for pants that have structure and boy, it certainly holds the "paper bag" effect in place. If I were to get more of this stunning cotton twill, I'd make a pair of Helen's closet Yantas or the Sew Over it Dorothy Jacket.
Oh yes, The buttonholes went in like a dream. I used some fray stop to preserve them as they would be in heavy use due to the drawstring.
I managed to buy some other fabrics from the rag shop, just before my fabric ban (Yeah! You read right!) had started as I was already thinking ahead for autumn makes and I just know that the fabrics that I've got for the tops will look absolutely amazing. In fact, there's a couple of testers that I'm working on at the moment and the fabric in both testers, will just be an incredible pairing with these "Brick" colour Solines and I am so excited to share my outfits when they get released.
As well as making sure that all stray threads are snip and pulled off I always like to add a label just to finish off my me-made.
I don’t think this will be my last time using this gorgeous twill nor the Soline pattern, they are two products that have my sheer praise right now. I am really enjoying investing time and colour into my wardrobe. I’m usually all patterns but adding a few block solids already I am seeing how many new outfits are being created - it is pure magic to me!
We have sadly sold out of this colour in the Ventana twill. We plan to restock some colours soon but you can check out what we do have here.