SEWING MY WINTER FRIENDLY LUCIDA WITH STEPH
It's been a while since I last wrote a blog, we have been so lucky to have soooo many amazing guest bloggers over the last year that I have barely had to lift a finger in the blog department! But I'm here and ready to talk about one of my favourite patterns at the moment, the Friday Pattern Company Lucida dress!
My Lucida journey started off with our stunning ( now sold out) Denim Daisies Viscose Jersey- the perfect jersey fabric for a summer dress! I made the Lucida exactly as it comes, just taking a good chunk off the length with me being 5ft, and I don't think I have worn such a flattering dress in my whole life! This dress ticked so many boxes for me! Jersey- my preferred fabric post lockdown life, it allows me to be comfy even when I have to take my joggers off to go to work! Along with the jersey fabric, this dress features a drawstring detail at the centre front providing a soft gather detail over the bust, I quite like this as it helps the fabric to accentuate my contours. I am certain my denim daisies version will be a wardrobe staple every time the sun comes out from now on, but what about when the sun isn't out? I mean, I live in England...
Thats when I knew a 2nd version was on the cards, it needed long sleeves to keep me warm and I had just the fabric in mind too! Our Black Floral Motif Viscose Jersey has been a firm favourite of mine since she arrived, I knew it would be the perfect fabric to wear with tights and boots in the winter and would look equally as cool with sandals in the summer! For my more winter friendly version of this dress I decided I was going to do a bit of a sleeve mash-up combining the long sleeve from the Closet Core Ebony Dress and the sleeve head from the Lucida to ensure it fitted into the armhole correctly. I also decided that to give a bit of an extra layer for warmth, I would fully line the bodice, this would also make it feel a bit more secure around my back and give a lovely finish around the neckline too.
As listed above, I did a bit of a mash up to achieve a full length sleeve. The Ebony was not a perfect match but any stretch for the sleeve head of the Lucida so I was left with some weird gaps which I just filled in with pattern paper and straightened off into the Ebony shape. Having made the ebony before, I knew the sleeve was a nice fit for me in my forearm and would be nice and snug- exactly what I had in mind!
I also took quite a lot of length off the skirt to make this hit my knee, I am only 5ft so this is a very common alteration for me! Aside from this, I made a straight size small and did not feel I wanted to make any alterations to the shape.
Sewing With Jersey
In the shop, we often get asked, especially by beginners if you need an overlocker to sew with jersey and my answer is always no, but it's a nice way to do it when you are ready to invest in one. This pattern can be done fully my machine as does not require an overlocker at any stage.
To sew with jersey I change my stitch to a zig zag, the wider your zig zag the more stretch you will get but a narrow zig zag is fine for most projects. I always reduce my foot pressure down to 1 for sewing on jersey too, this just helps to not stretch your fabric as it goes through the machine. Some people do have walking feet, especially if coming from a quilting background and this can be a really handy tool however, I have found not essential.
A great feature with jersey is that it does not fray so your zig zag stitch is plenty to keep your garments in tact! I did add some clear elastic to my shoulder seams, just to ensure the garment keeps it's shape. I do sometimes use seam tape in my hem to prevent the jersey from curling however with this fabric, it was not necessary.
The pattern instructions for this dress direct you to cut 2 fronts, stitch these right side together on the neckline, turn out and stitch channels for your ties to go into down the front before then stitching the rest of the bodice together. For my version I cut 2 fronts, 2 backs and my sleeve. I sort of made 2 bodices, one for the outer layer and one for the lining, I joined them both at the shoulders so that the necklines were continuous all the way around. From here I pretty much followed the instructions again. I laid my two sets of front & back bodices out right sides together, matching the shoulders and front neckline notches and pinned.
Starting at one of the front channel notches I stitched around the neckline with a zig zag stitch before finishing at the other channel notch, leaving an opening at the centre front for my tie channels. I turned one of the bodices through the neckline and pressed it flat. Now I could just treat this as one bodice!
To achieve neat top stitching for the tie channels, I used an air erase marker to draw my lines and I popped pins in along the lines to hold the two layers together, something I am usually too slap- dash to do! When sewing up the channels I used a straight stitch and really took my time to not stretch out the fabric.
This dress turned out exactly as I had hoped! I feel just as comfortable in it layered up with a jumper and tights and I do wearing it with bare legs and sandals. I feel like it is one of those pieces perfect for transitional seasons when I want to just be slightly warmer or cooler than how I dress for full blown summer or winter!
This Lucida goes really well with my recently completed Lauren Aston Designs Button Knit Up Cardigan which allows the gather detail to still be seen!
We think this pattern is perfect for any cotton, bamboo or viscose jersey. The shape will suit a mix of prints depending on your taste and will also look great in a range of scales too. Anything from our Urban Smudge through to the Soiree Cotton Jersey will look beautiful in this shape!
Shop all our other jersey fabrics here!
We hope that this little blog helps to inspire you to give jersey dresses a go and gives you just a few ideas about how you can make changes to suit your taste!
Thanks for reading,
Pattern: Friday Pattern Company Lucida Dress (PDF Only)