The Passiflore Dress- Part 1 with Vicki @whatvickimade
An Autumn Perfect Passiflore
The Passiflore by Deer and Doe is a pattern that has been on my ‘To Sew’ list for quite some time now. I don’t know if this is something others can relate to, but for me it’s one of those patterns that I’m not even sure I actually like, but either the line drawing sparks some inspiration, or I see that ONE version someone else has made that I absolute love. So, this is where I found myself with the Passiflore, a pattern that as a whole I’m not sure is my style, but with the right fabric I know it will fit perfectly into my wardrobe.
When I spotted the Chartreuse Lyocell Twill on The Rag Shop website I knew it was THE fabric for this project. If you follow me on Instagram then you will know that I am a customer and have also done a previous collaboration with the shop, so when Steph asked me if I’d be interested in collaborating with her again I think I’d said yes before I’d even finished reading her message!
The colour of the fabric is quite a tricky one to photograph, but I had seen a video of Sharlene from SoSewDressmaking on Instagram showing a Zadie jumpsuit she made from the same fabric, and I just absolutely love it. The shade of chartreuse I would describe as more of an olive green with a very slight tone towards yellow.
The fabric has the most beautifully soft drapey handle, one side has the texture of the Twill weave (I used this as the right side) and the other side is relatively smooth. It feels lovely against the skin and hangs nicely. I have worked with viscose twills before which I found, to be blunt, a pain to work with, they slipped and slid all over the place leaving me with wonky seams and hems from getting the grain-line slightly off, I didn’t have this problem with this fabric. It is my first time working with Lyocell, which is a fabric I hadn’t heard of until quite recently. Lyocell, if you don’t already know, is essentially made from wood pulp, it is loved for being a more sustainable fabric choice, and as a fabric it is great for breathability and sensitive skin.
The Passiflore comes with 3 view options, a shirt, mid length dress/coat and a maxi length dress/coat. I toyed with the idea of going with the maxi length but in the end opted for mid length. It also has two sleeve options, short sleeves and long sleeves with cuff, for me this was no choice as I love a long sleeve. I love the idea that this can either be worn as a coat/jacket or a button front vintage style dress, but for me and my style it works really well as a lightweight jacket.
As always my measurements span across several sizes - I am a 46 bust, 52 waist and a 46 hip. I decided to grade from a 46 bust to a 50 waist and hip, I thought that grading the extra size would be too much and I knew I would fit within the ease of the 50. I opted not to grade back down for my hips as this would have altered the shape of the dress, I also always appreciate a bit of extra room anyway. Remember when grading that this needs to apply to the facing, centre front, side front, as well as the backs, and try to make sure you start grading from a similar area on all the pieces, I found using the arm hole was a good place to work down from to figure out where I would start grading on all of the pieces.
When I first cut out the pattern pieces, naturally, I didn’t follow the cutting layouts (I never do) and I had quite a bit of fabric left over, which I was surprised about. When it came around to the sewing I realised I should have cut out the centre front pieces mirrored twice (oops!). Of course I hadn’t left a long enough length to cut these pieces on the grain, so I ended up cutting them on the cross grain, I don’t think this made any difference to how the fabric hangs for looks, but these pieces were used for the facing rather than the outside anyway. I added pockets to the side seams of my jacket using a pattern piece from another pattern that I had easily to hand, there has been times when I’ve omitted pockets but it’s aways left me with deep regrets! I used French seams to finish most of the seams of my jacket, I just really love this as a finish.
I unfortunately didn’t find the instructions to this pattern the best, they just seem to be lacking some details, and I don’t find the illustrations all that clear. Luckily I have been sewing for a while and I have sewn this style of collar several times previously so I pretty much just ditched the instructions altogether in the end. It’s not that the pattern isn’t well drafted, it sewed together nicely and I love the final garment, but the instructions would not be all that suitable for a beginner. But, if your planning to give this pattern a go and find yourself stuck I’d be more than happy to help if you just dropped me a message through my Instagram account.
I purchased some Pigeon Wishes Chai Latte Shirting buttons from the shop to go with this make. I absolutely love the range from Pigeon wishes, the colours of the buttons are always a perfect blend and they have a lovely smooth texture. I think the palette of the Chai Latte goes perfectly with the tone of the fabric.
I think I should have omitted the top row of buttons as I think they might have been meant for the shirt view, there was another row of buttons at the bottom which I didn’t use, but I think I should have used these instead. I found the waistband a little bit on the short side so I would lengthen that next time, otherwise I wouldn’t make any other alterations to this garment.
I would make this view again, but I’m not sure whether I would make the short sleeved or shirt versions as it isn’t really my style. I would definitely use this fabric again, it was lovely to work with and it’s even nicer to wear, it is also such a versatile fabric you could use it for just about anything that doesn’t require structure or stretch.
I hope you’ve found this post useful, and thank you to Steph for having me on the blog.